Baja Sea Caves Trip

Some time during the last trip around Coronado, Jane mentioned that she was going on the Baja Sea Caves trip. I thought about this some. I have never done a real kayaking adventure and this might be a good opportunity. (There was the failed trip to San Simeon, but that is for another post.) Jen was leading the trip, so I asked my lovely bride and she agreed to let me go. Yippee!

The weekend before the trip, I went down to the shop to try out a few of the boats. Since we were to be playing in the rocks, paddling a fiberglass boat is not a good idea, unless doing field repairs is your idea of a good time... I found a Tsunami 170 that seemed to fit fairly well. I liked the high back support, so I 'reserved' it for the trip. I also decided to leave my paddle at home.

We met at Aqua Adventures about 9am on Friday. Most of the folks were there. Jen had just flown back from a family visit on the East coast, so she was behind the curve (and short on sleep). The boats were secured, and gear spread among the 4 other cars. Once our late arrival made it (there was some confusion on the time), we were off down the freeway toward the border. My wife had put one condition on the trip, of NOT taking our car across the border, so I rode down with Dave from Orange County. He had just joined CKF, and was making the transition into sea kayaks from surf boats.

The trip down was nice and smooth. Dave is a real likable fellow and we would later learn a good paddler as well. The Mexican elections are coming up, so the signs and banners are everywhere. I wonder if they get taken down after the election? There seems to be so much litter about, I doubt it.

We quickly passed through the tolls in our happy little caravan, passing the new resorts being built along the coast, and then we entered into Ensenada. A cruise ship sat in the harbor, its cargo/passengers having spilled into the town to buy beers, sombreros, and other 'authentic' items to take home. We also passed the Costco, Home Depot, and Super Walmart as we left city. A very interesting contrast.

We turned off Highway 1, and were on the road toward La Bufadora. The rural Mexico began to appear, as we were now far enough from the border and tourists. Tamale stands began to dot the roadsides, along with stands selling olives and other items. After a quick stop for firewood, we drove a bit further and finally stopped at one of the tamale stands for lunch. We ordered a variety of tamales and dug in.

We loaded back up into our cars, drove a few hundred feet and made a left onto a dirt road. We passed some gated houses and then began climbing up over the ridge toward our campsite. We had to change our location because the road to the other site had become too rough for the trailer. We bounced back and forth and the cars crept up the road, finally cresting, revealing the Pacific Ocean again. The campsite (Google Map) was set on a bluff overlooking the beautiful bay. Small fishing boats sat anchored in the blue green waters.



We decided to use the lower of the two sets of sites. We quickly unloaded our cars and began to set up camp. I had the added fun of pitching my borrowed tent. I let my natural design skills take over and 'solved' most of its design without an issue. I did have two extra rods that I never did figure out, but since it didn’t fall, I guess they weren’t that critical. Many of us ran into trouble staking our tents into the rocky soil. Some got lucky and were able to get them in, I figured the gear in the tent would be weight enough.



Jen got the kitchen assembled, and the boats unloaded. The spot has a boat ramp and a cobble beach to launch from. The down side is there is always early morning noise from the fishermen coming down to launch.



The day was quite hot, and setting up camp left us all a bit sweaty. Soon the 15 of us were assembled at the waters edge. Jen was joined by two paddlers from England. Steve and Sue are both highly skilled paddlers whom Jen had met while on her recent British paddling trip. They are spending 6 weeks traveling around America. It was an honor to have spent some time on the water with them and chatting around the campfire. It was also helpful since Jen's other guide for the trip bailed out at the last moment.

The group was quite a mix of paddlers. We had an elderly couple, several folks from Valley Wide kayak club, some other San Diego folks, and one paddler from Yuma. The skills of the group also were spread out a bit. But the entire group was a friendly and enjoyable.



After gearing up, we headed down to the boats. The path was a bit rocky and I wound up bruising my heel on a rock in my thin soled Tevas. As we began to set up our boats, my spray skirt was too small for the cockpit. So I swapped with Patty and we were good to go. We sat there in this tiny little bay as each person shoved off. I began to feel out the characteristics of this boat. How does it turn, how does it edge, etc. I could have used a little padding in the hips, but all was fine.



Right inside this cove was a tiny slot that you could slip through with no trouble to 'warm up'. Jane and I took turns darting through it. Soon, the group was on the water. We headed southward, to begin our exploration. Just past the first bay was a tiny archway and perfect introduction to the adventures that lay ahead. We all queued up (slipping in some 'English') and darted through.



We paddled on, but the kelp beds were quite thick causing some difficulty in picking our way through them. Soon we found some more rocks to play in, learning to ready the swells and water flow at each spot. After about 2 hours of playing in the incredible waters, we turned back toward our camp. Jen had someone on tow by this point, when we had another paddler in trouble. Since I was also carrying a tow belt, I quickly paddled over and took control. I attached the clip to one side of the deck lines of the sit-on-top and let out my line. The belt was only 50 feet, so I had to undo the knot and let it extend all they way out. Grace had become seasick from either the bit of swells or the tamales. Her husband stayed right with her as we made our way back to camp.



Jane came back to check on us, but we were close enough and I just wanted to see it all the way through. I remembered to keep looking back to back sure that she was still there. We slipped into the little bay, I unhooked my tow line, and she landed with no problem. She was grateful that I was there. I was glad to have helped and to have honed my skills to that level.

Jen kept everyone out of the kitchen as she cooked up a nice pot of pasta with hearty veggie red sauce. The heat of the day had given way to some cool breezes from the ocean. A full moon was rising over the hills just past the fog. The moonlight danced across the water. Several folks tried their luck at capturing it on film.

Soon the fire began to die down, and as we knew we had a full day of paddling ahead of us, I turned in. The evening was perfect. I laid in my tent and fell asleep on top of my sleeping bag with just a big beach towel as my blanket.

Sleep did come, but the hard ground would remind me that I was not at home next to my wife. I slept through the arrival of the fishermen, finally emerging from my tent as I heard enough voices around the coffee pot. Note to self: Next time bring a bigger mug (although the mug was very retro much like the tent).

Jen cooked up some eggs and muffins, with a slice of melon. Hollandaise sauce was also available. We finished up, and then quickly changed into our gear. Today's plan was to paddle our way up to La Bufadora. Given the breadth of skills, we kept the paddle a bit open. Jen packed a lunch in her boat, and I fastened a tow belt to my back deck. Grace and Bob decided to stay at camp. Dave brought a sun shade, so they should be ok. That's why it is good to bring something to do off the water, just in case.



Just around the first outcropping, Jen took us through a wonderful little rock garden. I was one of the first through and she had me take a tougher route, sliding in, then making a right turn over some rocks. I executed a nice bow rudder and set up perfectly. I think I caught a little smile on her face as I did it.



Paddling on, we passed through several more spots until we came to a good sized cave. I was up front talking with Jen, and she had me hold outside while she looked inside. She waved me in. This was my first true cave experience. WOW! I spun around to face back out, as she paddled out. I had Jane’s camera and took a shot looking out. I hoped we might travel all the way through it.



One by one, folks had a chance to go in. We then went around the corner to look at the exit. Steve went through and Jen did send Jane through, but there was technical turn and one other tight spot. The rest of us would have to wonder...

After another bit of play we crossed a larger bay. Here fishing rings were set up by the locals. As we paddled past, a large seal rose from the water and told Jen that this was his water and to stay back.

We round another point, and across another small bay was La Bufadora. Jen had already been towing one member a bit, but we opted to head over to the blowhole before lunch. This would allow the stronger paddlers a chance to continue up the coast and play, while the others could walk into town.



As we approached, we were greeted by the sounds of the water being forced high into the air, followed by the ahhs from the throngs of tourists lined above it. Jen paddled in close and scouted out the entrance. She gave some guidance to Steve who served as our seaward eyes, while Sue hung in close snapping photos. A voice from above asked if we saw a white hat. Jen scooped it from the water, and paddled around the bend to return it. I bet that tourist never thought they would get that hat back.



As we sat in the queue, the sight of this blowhole was incredible. There is a photo in the shop, but actually witnessing it from the water was amazing. Soon it was my turn, and I approached. Feeling the swell beneath boat, I held my spot next to the rocks. I would toss in a few draws, and wait for the 'show'.



I spun around to make sure I got a good face shot, as I had given the camera back to Jane. We all took turns experiencing it. Soon we left and paddled over toward the beach for lunch. Pita, hummus, some cheese, and other goodies were quickly eaten. I gave some money to the folks staying behind to buy a couple of sodas. Note to self: Pack your own soda next time.



So Dave, Steve, Sue, Jane, Patty, Jen, Jake and myself launched just behind a massive armada of rented sit on tops. As they headed toward the blowhole, we headed around the point into more wondrous spots.

We passed by an archway out in the ocean that was the scene of quite a dramatic rescue a few years ago. Jane was on that trip. Jeff (now of Liquid Fusion Kayaks) had scouted the arch, and declared it unsafe. But another paddler ignored his warning and entered anyway, only to be tossed from his boat. Jeff as able to get in and rescue the paddler and the boat. Jane said it was the most incredible thing she had seen on the water.



We stopped in one little cove, and found a good size slot to go through. We had to approach it heading into the swell due to a rock along the right side. Some opted to go around. Sue and Jen were on the other side, and Steve was assisting with timing. Dave went first, he got pushed to the left some, but was able to push off and punch through. I waited and began my entrance. There was quite a bit of push from the flow to the left. My bow bumped the mussel encrusted rock. I quickly back paddled out, so as not to get wedged inside. I waited a bit, changed my line and punched through. Jane had been helping Patty with a photo, so we weren't initially wondering where they were. Then Jen decided to swing back to see what was going. Well, Jane thought it would be a good spot for a swim. She also got pushed to the left, got wedged, and over she went. Steve darted in and plucked her right up. Sadly a hat and sunglasses were offered up to King Neptune. Jane was quite impressed with Steve's skills. I would have liked to have seen a 'live' rescue of this type. I am glad that Jane was ok.



We paddled on to the merry go round, and had fun lopping around this one garden. I was starting to get a basic feel for the timing of the water. After a bit, it was time to turn back toward camp. We all were starting to feel tired from being on the water. As we entered the bay where we left the others, Jen let us continue on ahead while she paddled in and escorted them home.

We took a straight line back to the campsite, so we shaved several miles off the return trip. All those nooks and crannies add up. My elbow was starting to feel the effects of the distance and the stress of playing. I slowed up and took it nice and easy. I figured that I would rather push it today, and skip any paddling on Sunday.

I spent some time chatting with Steve about his programs he runs in England. I really wish I could go over and paddle with them. There is talk of a exchange program between Aqua Adventures and his program. We finally rounded the point and gently landed on the rocky cobbles.



When I got back to the tent, I popped some Advils and took it easy for the rest of the evening. A bit later the rest of the group soon arrived, along with two bottles of Coca-Cola. Even warm, the soda was a wonderful. Jen was soon in the kitchen, again rebuffing any offers of help.

Soon warm tortillas were ready to be filled with chicken, rice and beans. Yummy! Note to self: Bring dessert next time to nosh around the campfire. Soon the campfire began to die down, and the effects of about 5 hours on the water were being felt by all. I slept fairly well, but did hear the fishermen the next morning. I was able to roll over and fall back asleep, though.

The morning greeted us with another wonderful day. Jen had a pot of coffee brewing, and started on a simple breakfast of bagels and bacon. Folks began to break down their tents. I started some packing, but figured I would do it when we got back.

So we headed down to the boats. Grace and Bob decided to join us, but Jen put her into a decked boat to help her out. Jane and I got on the water first, so we spent some time playing in the slot in the cove as the rest of the group launched. That is, after I rescued Jane's boat after it slid off the cobbles into the water. Dave stood ready to grab a seal launch with his camera. But alas, neither Jen nor Steve opted to give us a show. We paddled just around the point to a spot we played in the day before. The swell seemed to up just a bit, so it had a bit more excitement. The spot offered two paths, a fairly straight and wider path that tend to have a bigger push and a little nudge from a submerged rock, and a slip over path to the right. Soon folks were trying both paths.



We soon had our first swimmer of the day. Jerry was paddling against the flow along through the wide slot, when he got knocked over, Steve was right there and plucked him out without an issue. Sue got control of his boat, and I was ready right behind them given where I was.



I was having an absolute blast. I was feeling really great sitting in the slot, paddling through all the options. It was a great confirmation of how my paddling skills have matured. The adventures here continued for some time. Bob took a turn paddling through the slip over, but his timing and line were off and he got stuck atop the rocks. Luckily he remained upright and waited for the next swell to carry him over. I hope someone got a photo.

Hank took a quick swim, but I was too far away to aid the rescue. Hank was almost able to roll up, but his paddle became tangled in the kelp. Another set of sunglasses were given as an offering to King of the Deep.



One item I had trouble with was one paddler who was allowed to hang out a bit away from the group. This made me a bit uncomfortable.

As the morning wore on, we would get slightly larger swells passing through, which the stronger paddlers really enjoyed. I caught one that really sent me zipping over the slip over. There was always a crowd of boats near the exits (usually with cameras ready), so I had to do some fancy stroke work to slice through them. I was traveling way too fast to stop in time, and I had not been able to do a decent low brace turn in this boat. Always glad to put on a show...



Later, Sue's boat got pushed up the rocks and she took a swim. Sue started to perform a solo reentry, but she almost finished it before plopping back in. I'm always impressed by folks that can do that. I think my hard chines on my regular boat work against me too much. Dave helped her slip back in and pump out her boat. I steadied Dave and managed the paddles and watched our position against the rocks. The real question is, although she had tucked her camera in her day hatch, it did get a little wet. Hopefully the card is still functioning. With Sue's skills she was able to get right in where the action was and get some great shots.



Around 11:30, the group headed south to play in one last spot before heading home. Some folks opted to return to camp and just relax. I started to follow, but the elbow was telling me it was time to call it a day. I informed Jen that I was headed back to camp. I circled back along the cliffs, playing in a few very simple slots. I gathered up my gear, and headed back to camp. A nice quick rinse of fresh water, and I began to break down the rest of my gear. We could see the group off in the distance, as we took our time in breaking camp.

Before long, everyone was back, and the process of loading up was underway. Most of us were eager to head home. Some had thoughts about heading to La Bufadora. Jack pull the trailer over the roads in his Jeep, while the rest crept behind. Once over the hill, we switched the trailer back to Jen's truck. Hank then discovered a construction bolt his tire. We already had a flat on John's truck (he had full size spare) and a dead battery in Dez's car. We stopped at a taco stand, and Dez was able to locate a tire repair store. After some excellent tacos and cold drinks, we began what was a long slow drive back home. Dave and I chatted about the weekend's adventure and the sights of the Mexican roadside.

We gassed up in Ensenada. A classic car show had taken place that weekend, so the toll road was filled with beautiful cars cruising along the coastline. It had taken us about 3 hours just get to the backup at the border crossing. It must have been quite a sight to Steve and Sue to see all the vendors, hustlers and other things as we crept along. Although we got split up from our caravan, some nice driving by Dave got three us together again. Jerry had already split off, and Dez was staying with Hank to deal with the tire.

After about an hour, we presented our IDs to the border patrol, and were back in the USA. As soon as I knew I would pick up a cell tower on the US side, I called my wife to let her know I was back home and in one piece. I'm sorry she was so worried. Maybe next time I can borrow a Satellite Phone from work.

Once back at the shop, I transferred my gear to my car and said goodbye to my fellow paddlers. I asked Jen if I could come by and get a more detailed assessment of my paddling. Who knows, maybe I will try the 3 Star assessment again. All in all, the trip was an incredible experience and not only renewed my soul, but also confirmed that I can call myself a decent kayaker.



Photos coutesy of Jane Hardy. More photos can be found on Flickr.com. A Google Earth file is also available.